Gale Force 9 greenstuff
|Gale Force 9 in the tubes. Games Workshop in the battered roll.|
The GF9 greenstuff is also stored in two separate tubes. The GW putty is in a strip which causes the center of the strip to cure in the package resulting in lumps in the putty or wasted material. The tubes make it easy to keep the yellow and blue separate and make them easy to store neatly.
Most importantly, how does sculpting with each compare? Although they look identical, I find that they have slightly different properties. GW greenstuff is more elastic. This can be really useful for some shapes and effects like stretched skin. I have found the GF9 greenstuff to behave more like a mix of greenstuff and milliput. It is easier to smooth and is softer. I have found the working time to be a bit longer too. It holds details and shape very well. The only downside I have noticed is that, like milliput, GF9 greenstuff tends to dissolve in water a bit, making spit a less than perfect choice as a lubricant. Overall, I prefer sculpting with the GF9 putty for most applications where I need a smooth finish. I will probably still use the GW greenstuff for little details like flaps of skin hanging free and maybe other applications where you pull the putty to get the effect. I think I could still do all of this with GF9 putty.
In conclusion, if you can find it locally (preferably at your local store!), I would recommend trying GF9 greenstuff for your sculpting needs. It is cheaper, easier to smooth, and has an interesting smell (it really does! Not bad, just interesting). I have found it overall easier to work with while still holding the detail necessary. The packaging is much better and the savings are huge if you use much greenstuff. That being said, there is nothing wrong with GW greenstuff. I find it works well when you learn it's properties. I just now prefer the GF9 greenstuff.
|Gale Force 9 greenstuff. First usage.|
|Terminators. See more of these models tomorrow.|
Sculpting the belly plates on my Death Guard models I have had to try and create a really smooth, uniform finish. I had previously used chap stick to stop greenstuff press moulds from sticking. I was making some press moulds and just started using a bit of chap stick to lubricate my tools. When you are doing this you need to ensure that the putty is on the model and that no chap stick is between area you want to stick together (or they won't stick!).
The basic technique I use is as follows. I create a blog of putty the size I want. I apply it to the model then use tools to get the approximate shape I want. I then apply a little chap stick onto my colour shaper (a tiny bit, just a thin covering). I then use the chisel colour shaper to smooth the surface, spreading the chap stick as I go. The chap stick allows me to apply very, very light pressure to smooth and prevents tool marks and lines. Doing this slowly and carefully allows me to get a very smooth finish. Finally, I add details using other tools and then go back afterwards to smooth the overall shape and finish again.
My biggest concern is that the chap stick could prevent paint from sticking. To this end, I plan to gently wash each model with soap, water, and a toothbrush once the sculpting is complete to ensure that paint can stick.
|You can see how smooth I was able to get the putty on the stomach using chap stick.|
Also, I'd like to start adding some new blogs to the blog roll and getting Rust and the City added to the blog rolls of more sites. If you would like your blog added just drop me a line in the comments section and add Rust and the City to your blog rolls. Thanks!